Sigiriya

The place

King Kashyapa built his palace on top of this column of granite in the 470s, complete with frescoes, a mirror-polished wall, and gardens engineered with fountains that still run in the rains. The climb passes through the paws of a colossal stone lion - all that remains of the gateway that gave the rock its name.

Go at opening time. The stair is quiet, the heat is soft, and the summit has the plains to itself. Most guests pair the climb with the neighbouring Pidurangala rock for the classic view back at Sigiriya - we plan both into one unhurried morning.